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DC Links – Calitonian
Review
Washington is home to a great variety of excellent
restaurants, several with a connection
of some sort to California. A handful are the outgrowth of successful
West Coast ventures,
a few sport California chefs, and some merely draw on California as an
inspiration.
Here is a sampling of our favorites.
Run by Chef Michel Richard, Citronelle is
widely regarded as one of the finest restaurants in the Washington
area. Richard opened Los Angeles’ Citrus in 1987, pioneering
California-French cuisine; that same year, Traveler’s Magazine voted
Citrus ‘The Best Restaurant in the United States’. In 1994, Michel
opened Citronelle in the Latham Hotel in Georgetown. In early 1998,
Citronelle underwent a $2 million renovation and Richard moved from Los
Angeles to Washington, DC to cook full time. Richard now considers the
DC Citronelle (3000 M Street NW) his flagship restaurant.
Under
the Kimpton Group umbrella and one of DC’s hottest new restaurants,
some of Firefly’s buzz originates from its chef, John Wabek. Wabek
honed his culinary skills and appreciation or California wines in
California’s wine country, where he was executive chef at Brix in
Yountville, and spent three months working at Darioush Winery, where he
cleaned barrels, harvested grapes, and enjoyed spending time in the
tasting room. His current endeavor is at 1310 New Hampshire Avenue, NW.
Chef
Joachim Splichal and his wife, Christine, established their flagship
restaurant, Patina, in the heart of Hollywood’s studio district in
1989. In the fall of 1999, the Splichals opened Nick & Stef's
Steakhouses, offering a new interpretation of the American steakhouse,
in Los Angeles and New York, and in Washington, D.C. at 801 F Street
NW, near the MCI center.
The
Kimpton Group is well known for their chic hotels and breaking-the-mold
approach to design and cuisine. Bill Kimpton bought his first hotel in
San Francisco, and that city is now filled with Kimpton restaurants,
including Harry Denton’s Starlight room and Postrio. In DC they’ve
struck gold again, with Bar Rouge (1315 16th Street NW), Helix Lounge
(1430 Rhode Island Avenue, NW), Topaz Bar (1733 N Street NW) and
restaurants Firefly (1310 New Hampshire Avenue, NW) & Poste
Brasserie (555 8th Street NW, near the MCI center).
Red
Sage is unmistakably a Santa Fe-style restaurant, with a southwestern
menu, but its seeds are in Northern California. Mark Miller, the
restaurant's creator, owner, and chef, originally from Maryland, was
studying cultural anthropology at UC Berkeley when Alice Waters asked
him to come work at Chez Panisse in 1976. Doing so, he found his life's
calling, and stayed there until 1979, when he opened his own highly
acclaimed Fourth Street Grill in Berkeley, which catapulted him to
culinary fame.
He went
on to open Coyote
Café in Santa Fe before coming to Washington and starting
the acclaimed Red Sage – named "Restaurant of the Year" by Esquire in
1992. The menu is eclectic – signature dishes include Lobster Tamales
with Three Chilies, Wood Pigeon and Foie Gras Tamal, and Seared Spicy
Tuna with Mole Amarillo – and the décor creative and inspired.
(605 14th Street, NW Washington, DC)
Owner and chef Nora Pouillon is originally from Austria, and
her restaurants’ connection to California is, in their words, ‘purely
inspirational’, as they were heavily inspired by Alice Waters and Chez
Panise. Both restaurants emphasize healthy cooking and organic and
locally grown foods; in 1999 Restaurant Nora became the nation’s first
certified organic restaurant. Restaurant Nora is at 2132 Florida
Avenue, NW, near DuPont Circle, and Asia Nora is at 2213 M Street, NW.
If you’re
looking for a low key ‘taste’ of California, there are several
California-based chain restaurants with locations throughout the DC
area:
First
opened in 1985 in Beverly Hills – and home of the first ‘BBQ Chicken
Pizza’! - there are now 140 stores nationwide. In Washington they are
located at 1260 Connecticut Avenue (just south of DuPont Circle) and at
Montgomery Mall in Maryland.
Evelyn
and Oscar Overton first starting selling their cheesecakes from their
home in Detroit. Then, in 1971 they decided to pursue their dream of
opening a restaurant and moved to–where else?–Los Angeles. In
Washington you can find them at 5345 Wisconsin Avenue NW, in Chevy
Chase Pavilion.
An off
shoot of Beverly Hills’ well-known The Grill on the Alley, which was
itself modeled after the great grills of New York and San Francisco,
the first Daily Grill opened in Brentwood in 1987. The restaurants took
off with the public, and, after adding seven more in Southern
California, the Daily Grill moved east to Washington, DC. and its
vicinity, where there are four locales: 18th and M Streets NW (south of
DuPont Circle); 1310 Wisconsin Avenue, NW in Georgetown, Tysons
Galleria in McLean, VA, and Bethesda.
The first of these ‘blast from the past’ restaurants opened
in 1986 on Melrose Avenue in
Los Angeles. In Washington you can find them at 3131 M Street NW in
Georgetown and
at Union Station.
If you have any suggestions for new restaurants, please send
your comments to:
The California State Society e-mail to castatesociety@yahoo.com.
Or voice your opinion on our Hotline (202) 543-9559. We want to know
what you think and invite
you to become an active CSS member!
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